The Shed Cycle
Shedding is an exciting time for most keepers as it is a sign that the snake is healthy and growing. As exciting as shedding can be, it can also be nerve wracking and confusing. This resource was developed to give an outline of what to expect as your snake sheds, what your need to do, and any issues you may have.
Around the same time you will see is a change in the color of their belly scales. The lighter parts will have turned a pink-red color that many people mistake as a burn! What will tip you off that it’s not a burn is the scales on the side of their belly will turn ghostly. When you see this change, it’s important to up your humidity to 65% or higher to help them shed easily. Make sure you are using a digital hygro/thermometer to track the measurements, as pet store dials are highly inaccurate.
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Another visual that can tell you your snake is ready to go into shed is the appearances of wrinkles on the neck just around the head. It will take on a dehydrated look, where the skin will bunch up in sharp ridges. Beware! If more than the neck portion of your snake is wrinkled, that means it is dehydrated!
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During this point, it is not uncommon for the snake to stay in its hide. Many snakes will not leave their hide until it is time for them to slough off their skin. This is nothing to worry about. Your snake may also choose to soak in its water bowl! This indicates that your humidity is too low, and your best bet is to offer a hide with damp moss inside.
A snake in shed may also choose to refuse food for that week. I often find it is better to skip offering them a meal altogether. One missed meal will not impact the snake as long as it has a healthy body condition.
Within the next 1-3 days, the ball python will turn opaque, or “go into blue” meaning their eyes will be blue. What you are seeing here is a build up of fluids between their new and old skin. These fluids allow the layers to separate, and give the eyes that distinct shade.
During the blue phase, the snake may be abnormally jumpy and cautious. Remember: it’s hard for them to see. It’s best to leave them alone until they have completely shed. |
© H. Devers
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It’s important to not soak your snake between now and the completion of the shed cycle as that can actually remove helpful oils and make shedding even more difficult for your snake. If your humidity is not high enough, put a handful of damp, reptile-safe sphagnum moss into their favorite hide.
In the next few days, the snake will “clear up” which means they will remain that dark color, but the blue of their eyes will be gone. Many new owners think “did my snake eat its shed?” Nope! It’s just not done yet.
In the next few days, the snake will “clear up” which means they will remain that dark color, but the blue of their eyes will be gone. Many new owners think “did my snake eat its shed?” Nope! It’s just not done yet.
All clear! Within 1-3 days, your ball python will shed and look even brighter than ever!
© H. Devers
Shedding Issues:
Stuck shed:
Stuck shed can be severe or mild. In this case, you can see this is stuck shed and not “in shed” because the skin is wrinkly and it is very apparent the old skin is trying to part with the new skin. When they are in shed, their skin color changes, but not the texture of it. Stuck shed will appear ghostly and wrinkled. I think it looks like someone poured Elmer’s glue on the snake and let it dry. If your snake looks like this it has stuck shed. |
Retained eye cap:
These are fairly noticeable. They make the snake look awkward and “bug eyed.” Again, do as mentioned in the beginning of this section, and then take a warm, wet cotton swab and GENTLY swab over the eye. This should remove the eye cap. |