Feeding Strikes
Time and again we hear about ball pythons going on feeding strikes, being picky eaters, or missing a meal. They can be a bit of a challenge, and when they do refuse a meal it can be quite concerning. But, what is normal? When does it become a problem? When do we draw the line and say “okay, vet time?”
If you ask most people, they will say “it’s a normal thing for them to stop eating, don’t worry about it” but what most people don’t consider is the age and health of the ball python. For healthy, breeding-sized adults, feeding strikes can and do happen. However, if hatchlings and underweight ball pythons begin to miss consecutive meals, it is a concerning matter, as they should not skip out on eating multiple meals in a row. This guide was created to help you determine why your snake has stopped eating, or perhaps, why it is not eating consistently. This resource was intended for those whose snakes have missed multiple meals in a row or do not eat regularly. While a single skipped meal can cause panic in many new owners, it will not affect the snake negatively and is not of great concern. When many meals are missed, it becomes a problem.
To figure out why your ball python isn’t eating, the first step is simple: Always double check your husbandry.
Ball pythons are often finicky when it comes to their husbandry. The need to be kept in specific temperature and humidity ranges that do not fluctuate. In all the time I’ve been giving advice, I attribute approximately 90% of feeding strike cases to improper keeping conditions. The absence of proper housing, temperatures, and humidity are often the main factors when a ball python misses meals.
Temperatures for ball pythons should be consistent and constant. Any temperature emitting device must be paired with a thermostat or rheostat not only to avoid injury to your snake, but to also give them the best care possible by ensuring the temperatures do not change. A hotspot for a ball python should be 88-92 degrees. The cool ambient should be 78-80 degrees, whereas the warm ambient should be approximately 86 degrees. Hotspots and ambient temperatures are NOT the same and require two different temperature taking device to determine where they sit. If you are unfamiliar with the difference, please visit my guide on Ambient vs. Hotspot Temperatures.
· Are you using a red heat lamp?
Ball pythons are a nocturnal species and should not be subjected to a constant source of light. Instead, opt for a ceramic heat emitter, which will have the same effect without stressing your snake out.
Once you have determined that your temperatures are correct, you can move to humidity. For ball pythons, the humidity should be 55-65%. Any lower can cause respiratory infections and dehydration. Please use a digital hygrometer, as the pet store dials are highly inaccurate. If the humidity is not correct it can cause them to lose fluids too quickly through their skin. In turn this can cause cracked or dented eye caps, stuck shed, rectal/hemipene prolapse, meal regurgitation, and in extreme cases, death. Most of the time this will be preceded by not eating, so keep the humidity up!
Now that the main basics are checked, you’ll have to do some critical thinking about the habitat you have provided for the snake. Ball pythons are ambush predators, therefore they prefer to have cover and never be out in the open. For this reason, it is best to give them multiple opportunities to hide. Ball pythons like snug, and secure spaces, so it is a good idea to provide them with at least two hides they can press their bodies up against- one for the cool end, and one for the hot. They really do like spaces that seem way too small for them. If you are using a larger enclosure, be sure to fill any empty spaces with visual permeable barriers- that is to say, lots of stuff that looks like it takes up room, but also allows the snake to move through it. Fake plants, leaf litter, tunnels, etc. They will feel more secure if they have the chance to hide anywhere possible. Vertical space should be filled in a similar fashion, by draping various vines and platforms throughout the enclosure.
· Are you using a tank?
Tanks are difficult to maintain for ball pythons and there are some special steps you will need to take into consideration.
-Since they do not like to feel exposed covering 3 of the 4 panes of glass completely with wrapping paper, construction paper, etc. will allow them to feel more secure.
-The temperature/humidity may be fluctuating too much for the snake’s comfort. Cover ¾ of the top with foil, cling wrap, plexiglass, etc. to help maintain a more stable environment of temperatures and humidity.
Next, think about your handling technique. Many people want to begin handling their snakes straight away for massive amounts of time, which can make for a nervous noodle. Building up a ball python’s confidence for handling should be taken with care. Short, infrequent, but consistent bursts of handling practice are the best approach. If the snake becomes stressed, put them back. Aim to make handling a positive experience during every session. If the snake stops eating, reevaluate your handling practices. It is best to stop handling altogether until they are eating consistently again.
For more suggestions on how to create a stable ball python tank, visit this guide.
Where are you feeding them?
Separate bin feeding for a ball python is not suggested. They do best when they are fed in their enclosures- again that has to do with being an ambush predator. Naturally, they would find a secure place to hide and wait for food. By removing them from their “safe space,” you are creating a stressful environment.
Enclosure associated food aggression IS A MYTH! Your snake will not learn to bite you every time you go in there, so long as you are taking proper steps to handle and clean, and are also feeding with tongs.
What are you feeding them?
Ball pythons are notoriously picky about the types of food they eat. Size/age, species, and color can all be factors in ball pythons ignoring food. Generally you want to offer them the type of prey they have been consistently eating (unless you are trying to switch them to rats or frozen/thawed prey, which I highly recommend). If they are not eating consistently, then try other prey items! Some snakes will only take dark rats, and others will only take whites, some get hooked on mice, while others will eat anything you put in front of them. It all depends on the individual snake.
Size of prey is another aspect to be aware of. The general rule of size says the prey item should be 10-15% of your snake’s body weight. If the prey is too large, then the animal will not choose to eat. If the prey is too small, it may not be an attractive meal (this is a challenge especially for new owners with hatchlings). Remember that snakes can swallow prey 3x the size of their heads, so what looks large to us is really no problem for them. Finally, how often are you offering food? Too often can actually teach them to begin refusing meals. Every keeper has their own feeding preferences, but I go by the following: every 5 days for hatchlings under 500 g, every 7 days until they are 1000 g, and every 10 days from there.
Finally, if you have gone through this list, and you’re sure you have everything correct and your snake is still missing meals, ask yourself: what has changed? Did the room suddenly have more traffic in an out of the area? Did your snake outgrow its hidey hole? Keeping thinking about that and eliminate any changes as you go.
If you still cannot find a cause and your snake is a hatchling, underweight, or has lost more than 15% of its body weight, you should absolutely contact a vet for help. There isn’t much more to say about that. If it isn’t your husbandry then it is likely there is an internal issue that needs medical attention to treat. Please find a veterinarian that specializes in reptiles and make an appointment.
If you ask most people, they will say “it’s a normal thing for them to stop eating, don’t worry about it” but what most people don’t consider is the age and health of the ball python. For healthy, breeding-sized adults, feeding strikes can and do happen. However, if hatchlings and underweight ball pythons begin to miss consecutive meals, it is a concerning matter, as they should not skip out on eating multiple meals in a row. This guide was created to help you determine why your snake has stopped eating, or perhaps, why it is not eating consistently. This resource was intended for those whose snakes have missed multiple meals in a row or do not eat regularly. While a single skipped meal can cause panic in many new owners, it will not affect the snake negatively and is not of great concern. When many meals are missed, it becomes a problem.
To figure out why your ball python isn’t eating, the first step is simple: Always double check your husbandry.
Ball pythons are often finicky when it comes to their husbandry. The need to be kept in specific temperature and humidity ranges that do not fluctuate. In all the time I’ve been giving advice, I attribute approximately 90% of feeding strike cases to improper keeping conditions. The absence of proper housing, temperatures, and humidity are often the main factors when a ball python misses meals.
Temperatures for ball pythons should be consistent and constant. Any temperature emitting device must be paired with a thermostat or rheostat not only to avoid injury to your snake, but to also give them the best care possible by ensuring the temperatures do not change. A hotspot for a ball python should be 88-92 degrees. The cool ambient should be 78-80 degrees, whereas the warm ambient should be approximately 86 degrees. Hotspots and ambient temperatures are NOT the same and require two different temperature taking device to determine where they sit. If you are unfamiliar with the difference, please visit my guide on Ambient vs. Hotspot Temperatures.
· Are you using a red heat lamp?
Ball pythons are a nocturnal species and should not be subjected to a constant source of light. Instead, opt for a ceramic heat emitter, which will have the same effect without stressing your snake out.
Once you have determined that your temperatures are correct, you can move to humidity. For ball pythons, the humidity should be 55-65%. Any lower can cause respiratory infections and dehydration. Please use a digital hygrometer, as the pet store dials are highly inaccurate. If the humidity is not correct it can cause them to lose fluids too quickly through their skin. In turn this can cause cracked or dented eye caps, stuck shed, rectal/hemipene prolapse, meal regurgitation, and in extreme cases, death. Most of the time this will be preceded by not eating, so keep the humidity up!
Now that the main basics are checked, you’ll have to do some critical thinking about the habitat you have provided for the snake. Ball pythons are ambush predators, therefore they prefer to have cover and never be out in the open. For this reason, it is best to give them multiple opportunities to hide. Ball pythons like snug, and secure spaces, so it is a good idea to provide them with at least two hides they can press their bodies up against- one for the cool end, and one for the hot. They really do like spaces that seem way too small for them. If you are using a larger enclosure, be sure to fill any empty spaces with visual permeable barriers- that is to say, lots of stuff that looks like it takes up room, but also allows the snake to move through it. Fake plants, leaf litter, tunnels, etc. They will feel more secure if they have the chance to hide anywhere possible. Vertical space should be filled in a similar fashion, by draping various vines and platforms throughout the enclosure.
· Are you using a tank?
Tanks are difficult to maintain for ball pythons and there are some special steps you will need to take into consideration.
-Since they do not like to feel exposed covering 3 of the 4 panes of glass completely with wrapping paper, construction paper, etc. will allow them to feel more secure.
-The temperature/humidity may be fluctuating too much for the snake’s comfort. Cover ¾ of the top with foil, cling wrap, plexiglass, etc. to help maintain a more stable environment of temperatures and humidity.
Next, think about your handling technique. Many people want to begin handling their snakes straight away for massive amounts of time, which can make for a nervous noodle. Building up a ball python’s confidence for handling should be taken with care. Short, infrequent, but consistent bursts of handling practice are the best approach. If the snake becomes stressed, put them back. Aim to make handling a positive experience during every session. If the snake stops eating, reevaluate your handling practices. It is best to stop handling altogether until they are eating consistently again.
For more suggestions on how to create a stable ball python tank, visit this guide.
Where are you feeding them?
Separate bin feeding for a ball python is not suggested. They do best when they are fed in their enclosures- again that has to do with being an ambush predator. Naturally, they would find a secure place to hide and wait for food. By removing them from their “safe space,” you are creating a stressful environment.
Enclosure associated food aggression IS A MYTH! Your snake will not learn to bite you every time you go in there, so long as you are taking proper steps to handle and clean, and are also feeding with tongs.
What are you feeding them?
Ball pythons are notoriously picky about the types of food they eat. Size/age, species, and color can all be factors in ball pythons ignoring food. Generally you want to offer them the type of prey they have been consistently eating (unless you are trying to switch them to rats or frozen/thawed prey, which I highly recommend). If they are not eating consistently, then try other prey items! Some snakes will only take dark rats, and others will only take whites, some get hooked on mice, while others will eat anything you put in front of them. It all depends on the individual snake.
Size of prey is another aspect to be aware of. The general rule of size says the prey item should be 10-15% of your snake’s body weight. If the prey is too large, then the animal will not choose to eat. If the prey is too small, it may not be an attractive meal (this is a challenge especially for new owners with hatchlings). Remember that snakes can swallow prey 3x the size of their heads, so what looks large to us is really no problem for them. Finally, how often are you offering food? Too often can actually teach them to begin refusing meals. Every keeper has their own feeding preferences, but I go by the following: every 5 days for hatchlings under 500 g, every 7 days until they are 1000 g, and every 10 days from there.
Finally, if you have gone through this list, and you’re sure you have everything correct and your snake is still missing meals, ask yourself: what has changed? Did the room suddenly have more traffic in an out of the area? Did your snake outgrow its hidey hole? Keeping thinking about that and eliminate any changes as you go.
If you still cannot find a cause and your snake is a hatchling, underweight, or has lost more than 15% of its body weight, you should absolutely contact a vet for help. There isn’t much more to say about that. If it isn’t your husbandry then it is likely there is an internal issue that needs medical attention to treat. Please find a veterinarian that specializes in reptiles and make an appointment.